Sunday, 14 October 2018

Beating The Bounds...

(Please note that for those interested in a more detailed history of the "beating of the bounds at Cuxton", I have now given the subject its own blog page - see the right-hand side bar on the home page)

A volunteer (not me) marking a parish boundary tree in Little Red Wood

This Sunday, I tagged along with some twenty-odd other individuals comprising of Cuxton Parish council committee members, councillors and some other interested folk for a "perambulation" of the Cuxton Parish boundary.

These days, Cuxton's beating-of-the-bounds is currently undertaken every three years or so by members of the local Parish Council and its supporters. The passage of time changes many things and indeed, the historic ecclesiastical connotations of the 2018 event seemed little in evidence, with this year's triennial perambulation starting from the car park of the White Hart on a damp Sunday morning in October, rather than during the Rogation week of May.

Whilst the modern parish boundary is well-indicated on today's Ordnance Survey maps, paths and land use and ownership have greatly changed the ability to physically get to it.

Cuxton Parish boundary (2015 OS boundary marked in blue, perambulation route marked in red)

Indeed, its south-east portion actually runs along the middle of the River Medway, somewhat hindering any form of access (although Mr.Church does give an account of his doing so in 1966 by means of a canoe!).

Starting from the White Hart, we made our way across the railway crossing and took the alley running to the railway underpass, this path being the nearest practical one closest to the river "boundary". From there, we walked behind Factory Cottages up to the motorway bridge, then along a track across a smallholding, through the gate (kindly left open for us by arrangement with the landowner) and on to Sundridge Hill, adjacent to the Cuxton village sign.


From there, we crossed the road into Ranscombe Farm reserve and took the track up through Meralls Shaw close to the M2.  The OS map shows the boundary as running on the other side of the M2 motorway, but is is neither safe nor practical to get to it.  From there, the path runs next to the fence safeguarding the Channel Tunnel rail track, on the eastern side of Magpie Shaw.

Derek Church references an account of a perambulation in 1796, which records some 55 parish boundary markers.  Two oaks and an ash tree were listed as markers on the edge of Magpie Shaw, but trees do not make for enduring sentinels.  Old age, thoughtless axes, disease (Dutch Elm and now Ash die-back) and the weather (and in particular, the storm of 1987) has seen the loss of countless trees in the area, and no trace of any markers were seen until we turned west from the railway down the path running along the northern edge of Stogarts and Drapers Wood.

Marker tree, Stogards and Drapers Wood

This was a recent example, bearing a record of 21st. century boundary walks and which was duly etched with this year's record.  The woods were just starting to show their autumnal colours.

Woodland track between Stodarts and Drapers and Broad Oak Woods

The track continued on into Birch Wood where a decrepit chestnut tree could still be found, very likely the one that was noted in the 1796 perambulation referenced by Derek Church.

Ancient chestnut tree, Birch Wood

A younger example of a boundary tree was found nearby.

Boundary beech tree, Birch Wood

We followed the track down to the Mausoleum, that wonderful but somewhat neglected folly that never got to be the last resting place of the local lords of Darnleys as its instigators intended.

Darnley mausoleum

From there, we dropped down through Norword Grove and took the path down to the railway underpass that led to Warren House.  The Parish Council had thoughtfully arranged for a couple of volunteers to set up a table or two with tea and biscuits there, which were most gratefully consumed in the onset of a chilly drizzle.

Sticking close to the parish boundary, the group crossed the road and walked across the field to the edge of Red Wood.  We tracked up the hill on the woodland edge, then took the track into Little Red Wood, where another marker tree was found and dated accordingly (see first photo above).  Here, one of the younger (and lighter) members of the team gamely volunteered herself to be "bumped" against the marker tree, in keeping with the rather strange tradition as mentioned above.

Available woodland paths then led us slightly westwards from the parish boundary into Luddesdown and along the edge of Wrenches Shaw down to Bushy Wood, where we picked up public footpath NS 214.

This took us down the valley through Halling Wood, slightly south of the parish boundary which runs along the bottom edge of Bush Valley field.  The OS maps indicate that some boundary marker stones are present there, and after a brief hack through the undergrowth we found a couple, marked with HA (for HAlling?), which are doubtless the same posts mentioned by Derek Church in his account of a walk in 1971.

Boundary stone, Halling Wood

After a hard slog up the steep side of the valley through Bavins Shaw to the northern tip of Stonyfield Wood, we were some way south of the actual parish boundary, but private land ownership and a lack of available paths dictated a pragmatic approach.  We took the path up through North Wood, which crossed the parish boundary again and took us north-east to Millgate Spring.  Here, we picked up a path that led south across the valley behind Dean Farm, and up onto the main path through Mays Wood, just above the Warren.  The paths runs slightly north of the parish boundary, which dips down through Bores Hole, across the road to Whornes Place and then down to the river.

Derek Church mentions some marker trees on the accessible northern boundary of Bores Hole, but by the time we got close by, the rain and autumn leaves had made the track too slippery for a safe ascent. We therefore decided to retreat down Church Hill and adjourn to the White Hart for a well-earned drink and (for some) a late Sunday lunch.

I intend to retrace this circuit at some point in the future, as I am sure that many of the markers mentioned in Mr. Church's account still exist, and it would be good to record precise locations of them.

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

Lower Bush...

A view towards Bush Road from Upper Bush, in the late autumn sunshine...

Lower Bush...

Thursday, 27 September 2018

Wrenches Shaw...

Following the footpath NS211 from Stonyfield Woods in Halling eventually leads you out into Luddedowne.

Location of Wrenches Shaw
The views from Wrenches Shaw across the valley are always worth taking in, although what the future will hold now that the land is under new ownership is uncertain.  There is a memorial bench just where the path leaves the woods.

Luddesdowne Church from Wrenches Shaw...

At this time of the year, some interesting fungi can be found in Wrenches Shaw...

Fly Agaric

Ringless Honey Mushroom...
Following the harvest, several types of wildflower can now be seen in the field edges by the woods...

Charlock...
Charlock (Wild Mustard) is often planted as a cover crop in winter.  I think the above is an example of Charlock, but it is apparently quite easily confused with other members of the same yellow-flowering cabbage relatives.  The seeds are poisonous - other species are used in mustard.  The leaves are apparently quite tasty, though - not sure I'd want to trust my own ID skills, however...

Borage...
Borage was traditionally cultivated for culinary and medicinal uses, although today commercial cultivation is mainly as an oil seed.  Borage is widely used in Europe used as either a fresh vegetable or a dried herb. As a fresh vegetable, it allegedly has a cucumber-like taste and can be used in salads or as a garnish.  I think I'll stick to cucumbers in salads, though...

Germander Speedwell...
This pretty little flower can be found pretty much all year round.  It can be distinguished from other speedwells by the double line of hairs which grow on either side of the main stem.

Scarlet Pimpernel...
The little red flowers of Scarlet Pimpernel were also in abundance.  The plants are poisonous, although as yet demands by morons to wipe them out have thankfully yet to be made...


Saturday, 18 August 2018

Dode Church...

Deciding on a whim to walk from Upper Halling to the Amazon and Tiger in Harvel, I chose to take a route that led me past Dode Church in darkest Luddesdown, which I had not seen since before it had been restored in the 1990s.

From Mays Wood to Harvel...
Nestling in Wrangling Lane, which runs along the bottom of the silent and secluded valley beneath Holly Hill, the little church at Dode was built over 900 years ago during the reign of William II of England (William Rufus, the son of the Conqueror) at some time between 1087 and 1100.  Archaeological evidence shows that the area was inhabited during the time of the Roman Empire, and probably before long that.  The church itself is built on a man-made mound that certainly predates it.

Dode (sometimes called "Dowde") Church...
Like many villages in the area at the time, the village of Dode was badly hit by the Black Death in 1349, with every single inhabitant either killed or fled.  Other than the church, no trace of what is sometimes referred to as “The Lost Village of Dode” remains visible anywhere today. 

The church was last used as a place of worship in 1387 and then deconsecrated on the orders of Thomas Trilleck, the Bishop of Rochester, but unlike its structurally-similar twin in Paddlesworth on the outskirts of Snodland (TQ6862 : St Benedict's Church), it was never reconsecrated.

 
With the village abandoned, the church remained unused for centuries. In 1901, it was purchased by an antiquarian, George M. Arnold, Mayor of Gravesend. He restored the walls and roof of the church and in 1954, the Arnold family returned the building to the Catholic Church. It was rededicated as the Church of Our Lady of the Meadows and for a while, mass was celebrated there at least once a year.

Faux standing stones (pretty certain they weren't there 40 years ago...)
The building fell into disuse again however, and was vandalised. In 1990, Doug Chapman, a chartered surveyor who had worked at Canterbury Cathedral, purchased the church and began restoring the building, originally with the intention of turning it into a weekend home. After a change of heart, it was restored as a church and licensed as a civil wedding venue.  Weddings are still regularly held there.


There are many stories linking Dode Church to ancient ley lines and ghostly goings-on, all of which are (in my opinion) just so much credulous mumbo-jumbo. That said, the place is undoubtedly "atmospheric", though whether this is down to the preternatural quiet of its surroundings or an awareness of its long and somewhat sombre history is difficult to say. 

I do not regard myself as particularly superstitious or spiritual, but I do find the place to have a powerful ambience, one that I can only describe as an air of wistful melancholia. I get the feeling that the building itself is sad and lonely and craves human company, that it is desperately seeking joy and happiness, the laughter of children and the communion of the elderly that other less tragic churches get to experience in their weekly existences. There is a sense that it longs to shake it off its neglected and plague-blighted past. Perhaps its current role as a wedding venue is just right for it in that respect.

Dode Church interior, still lit up just after a wedding...
One acquaintance of mine (now a very senior member of Her Majesty’s Constabulary and the most level-headed chap you could possibly meet) tells me that, as a junior police officer, he used to find that night patrols of the Dode area were often particularly eerie, with radio contact never working in the claustrophobic and stifling shadow of Holly Hill. None of his peers liked going near the place at night.

The wedding business seems to be doing well though, and the venue is seldom unused over the weekend.

Harvel C.C. v Leeds & Broomfield C.C...
On a different note, I was pleased to find that Harvel Cricket Club is still going strong, and was able to watch their game against Leeds & Broomfield from the pub garden for a couple of hours before setting off for home again.

Saturday, 11 August 2018

Upper Halling to Luddesdown...

My usual route, starting from May's Wood, through Wingate Wood, turning down through Bavins Shaw and up the other side of the valley...

Halling to Lower Luddesdown..

The track down between Stonyfield Wood and Bavins Shaw is a pleasant, open ride often frequented by fast-flying Silver-Washed Fritillaries and other butterflies during the summer.  Although the hot summer has brought the butterfly season to an early close, a few battered fritillaries could still be found...

Silver-Washed Fritillary (left) and Meadow Brown...
The dry conditions have kept the blackberries fairly small in most places, but the bottom of the valley has still retained some moisture and the blackberries are pretty good here...

Blackberries...
Along the wide farm track up the hill towards Halling Wood, various wild flowers are still putting on a good show...

Clustered Bellflower...
Yellow Chamomile...
Hoary Ragwort...

The views from Wrenches Shaw show that the harvest has been completed...

Luddesdown, looking west from Wrenches Shaw...
Cobham, looking north-west from Wrenches Shaw...

Friday, 27 July 2018

May's Wood to Luddesdown...

The usual route...

The drop down to the bottom of the valley at Bavins Shaw is a wide, pleasant farm track populated by many fast-flying butterflies...

From Stonyfield Wood to Bavins Shaw bottom...

Painted Lady...

Silver-Washed Fritillary (male)

At the bottom of the valley there was a clearing with an eye-watering stand of wild Parsley in full flower (the pollen made my eyes water - and I am not a hay-fever sufferer!)...

Wild Parsley...

The Rosebay Willowherb was also in flower, providing a spectacular colour contrast...

Rosebay Willowherb...

Following the wide track up through Bavins Shaw towards Halling Wood, many other plants were also in flower...

Clustered Bellflower....

Stemless Thistle...

Spear Thistle...

The marjoram is a butterfly magnet...

Brown Argus on Wild Marjoram...

The bone dry oat fields above Luddesdown are ripe for harvest...

Luddesdown from Wrenches Shaw...

Tuesday, 24 July 2018

Church Hill and Mays Wood...

A short walk up Church Hill and then back along in the shade under the northern edge of Mays Wood...

Church Hill, looking south...

The heat brought the meadow butterflies out in good numbers...

Gatekeeper (male, left) and Meadow Brown on Marjoram...
Gatekeepers on Ragwort...

Meadow Brown on Greater Knapweed...

Various wildflowers were in abundance...

Hemp Agrimony...

Nettle-Leaved Bellflower...

Teasel....