Tuesday, 30 August 2022

Around the Silverhand Estate...

It seems that we will just have to get used to a large chunk of the parishes of Halling, Cuxton and Luddesdown being unilaterally renamed by a bunch of tax-exile billionaire-funded Johnny-Come-Lately arrivistes (a.k.a. Vineyard Farms/MDCV Ltd). As I have said elsewhere, the "Silverhand" moniker appears to have absolutely nothing to do with our area (or its history) and instead seems to have been dreamt up by some computer game-obsessed marketing wonk. 

Anyway, I'd thought I'd take a little walk over to the Silverhand estate again, just to see if there was anything much in the way of grapes growing on the fledgling vines. The hot dry summer is apparently giving rise to a bumper grape harvest, even if it is killing everything else...

Wingate Wood...

Stonyfield Wood - fence prepping...

"Coppicing" in Stonyfield Wood...

The woods around Stonyfield still reverberate to the noise of chainsaws, work which has been going on since at least April this year. These woodlands form part of the Silverhand estate and are therefore at the tender mercies of Vineyard Farms. It is SSSI woodland, but that status doesn't prevent trees from being felled. 

As far as I can tell from the Forestry Commission database, these activities are apparently covered by a Woodland Grant Scheme, which applies to much of the woodlands under the ownership of Vineyard Farms (though the licence - transferrable - was granted to the original cement company landowners, CeMex in 2013). The licence permits coppicing and thinning (which is long overdue in many areas, to be honest) and is valid until August 2023...

Hornbeam, Bushy Wood...

Fortunately, Vineyard Farms have yet to get around to cutting down any trees in Bushy Wood. By no stretch of the imagination would the felling of the old historic Cuxton parish boundary marker tree (above) count as "coppicing or thinning", so barring an act of illegal spitefulness, it should be safe...

Dates on the parish boundary marker tree, going back to 1966...

It will be interesting to see if Vineyard Farms will grant permission to allow access to their land for this coming October's iteration of the ancient tradition of "beating the bounds" (the organisers will ask, I'm sure). I can't see VF refusing, somehow. It would be rather bad publicity if they did... 

Ray and Eiley Bassett memorial bench, Wrenches Shaw...

The memorial bench overlooking Luddesdown valley from Wrenches Shaw looks as if it could do with a bit of TLC but it is still sound. Ray Bassett started the Luddesdown Rights of Way Walking Group and was a great champion of walking access. I wonder what he would have made of the "Silverhand estate"...?

Vineyard views from the memorial bench...

Across the valley toward Cobham...

View towards Round Wood across Bowling Alley

Watching the watcher...

Walking down the NS214 footpath towards Buckland Road, I stopped to photograph the few wild flowers that were on show, and took a few scenic shots. I was idly wondering when a Vineyard Farm "warden" would turn up to keep an eye on me when suddenly, as if by magic, one appeared, thundering along inside the field edge with Buckland Road in a white pick-up truck, newly-emblazoned with the Silverhand Estate logo. I stood still for a few minutes, watching him watching me. He soon got bored with that and drove off in a cloud of dust. Doubtless he had some other harmless walkers to keep an eye on...

Chicory...

Prickly Sowthistle...

A few scrubby wildflowers had managed to survive both the drought and the vineyard's scorched-earth land management, giving a touch of colour to the otherwise dull monoculture of vines...

Vineyard view towards Meadow View House...

The vines nearest Vineyard Farms' headquarters at Court Lodge are the oldest, most sheltered and best established of the vines to date. It was here that I took a look at what was likely to be the best of this year's crop.... 

Some of this year's grapes...
 
Despite the drought, only one or two of  the vines had succumbed and most looked to be flourishing in the summer heat, a testament to their deep roots. Even in this area, the vines didn't seem to be exactly overburdened with fruit, but the grapes that were there seemed to be in good-sized bunches and looked pretty healthy. In other areas of the estate further up the hill, there were very few grapes and the vines nowhere near as well-developed. 

Perhaps it is still early days in terms of good yields. Wine grapes are much smaller, thicker-skinned and sweeter than "eating" grapes and these looked pretty typical compared to others I have seen in commercial UK vineyards elsewhere. Whether there will be enough of them to yield much in the way of home-grown wine from this year's crop alone from the Silverhand estate or not, I don't know. It still seems a far cry from all the fanfare back in early 2019...

Small Copper...

Fly-tipped chalk and concrete, Cutter Ridge Road...

Huge piles of spoil are accumulating on the edge of the field between Luddesdown Road and Buckland Road, at the western end of the footpath that links the two. It has been reported, so I'm told...

"Downs Watch" - by the chalk spoil pile...

Sunflowers, Warren Road...

In Red Wood Field opposite what used to be the old gamekeeper's cottage (Warren House, formerly the Abbeymount Kennels) a bumper crop of Sunflowers has suddenly bloomed. Presumably these were sown by Vineyard Farms. They certainly make for a spectacular view.

Somewhat battered Common Blue...

Bush Farm earthworks...

The ground to the rear of Bush Farm is being carved out, presumably by Vineyard Farms, with the spoil simply being dumped in ugly piles on adjacent fields. Perhaps they are practising for when Barrow Hill gets hollowed out...

Dumped spoil, Peckway...

Bank of dumped spoil, southern edge of Peckway...

Restored boast post...

It would be quite wrong to think that Vineyard Farms care little for the appearance of their property, however. The boast post at the junction of the Both Downs Way with Bush Road had been vandalised, with the original poster ripped off. This has now been restored.

I hope it will be left alone, as it tells you much about our new baronial land-owners...


Tuesday, 9 August 2022

Barbed Wire at Brockles...

It is sad to relate that Brockles field in Cuxton, high on the hillside overlooking Bush Valley, has now been disfigured by hideously ugly galvanised steel gates and barbed wire fencing. 

It seems (from their Facebook page) that this project was supported by "Old Chalk New Downs", a lottery-funded group whose brief is to address "the loss of people’s connection with their natural environment and lack of knowledge and understanding of the value of their heritage through a variety of schemes"...

OCND: fencing off the countryside for YOU...
From what I can work out, it seems OCND think that the way to get people "connected with their natural environment" is to help landowners fence off or screen off as much of it as they can. A look at their annual reports for the past few years shows they have been involved with several North Kent land enclosure projects, one that will undoubtedly preserve chalkland habitat by preventing people with a "lack of knowledge and understanding of the value of their heritage" from getting anywhere near it.

It is perhaps no surprise that they have also been working with Vineyard "Get Orf Our Larnd" Farms, providing lottery funding to facilitate the planting of hedgerow screens on a private estate owned by a billionaire tax exile. 

Quite how VF/MDCV's winery plans (which at present include excavating 160,000-odd cubic meters of chalk for their winery and then burying Bush Valley under the spoil - plans which were rejected by Medway Council's Planning Committee) fit in with OCND's objective to "improve, restore, and reconnect threatened chalk grassland habitats" is a bit of a puzzle, of course. 

Perhaps VF's ongoing practice of dumping piles of ugly spoil along the edges of fields (see examples here and here) is also part of the master plan to "improve, restore, and reconnect threatened chalk grassland habitats"... 


I originally thought that this particular enclosure project had been undertaken to try and protect the cattle that sometimes graze up there from harassment by out-of-control dogs, whose owners have done so much to make any walk around Ranscombe Reserve an occasionally miserable, stressful and sometimes painful activity these days, at least in my experience.

I used to enjoy carefully picking my way through the Brockles grassland in early summer, looking for unusual wildflowers such as broomrape and Bee Orchids, or trying to photograph the Marbled Whites, Common Blue and Small Heath butterflies that abound up there. That small pleasure has now been obstructed, but then I would probably be considered by the doubtlessly highly-qualified folk of bodies such as OCND to have a "lack of knowledge and understanding of the value of our heritage" and so would not be not deemed worthy to access such places anyway.

It seems it's all "theirs" now, not ours...

Views of what Brockles used to look like before it got cordoned off like a mine field can be found here.

Now that the "Silverhand Estate" across Bush Valley and Luddesdown has become a virtual no-go area, we are becoming increasingly short of places to go for a hassle-free walk: step off the public footpaths up there in careful pursuit of a butterfly, wildflower or a better view, and a "warden" in a 4x4 will soon descend upon you and demand that you "get orf their larnd" immediately. I think they must spend all day scanning the horizon through binoculars, looking for "trespassers". You certainly feel like you are being watched.

There is the argument that people like me are part of the problem, of course, and that our harmless observations actually damage wildlife and crops blah blah. Really? 

That is just so much "gaslighting", of course... 

To me, that argument just sounds likes an excuse to shut the countryside down for the benefit of private landowners, aided and abetted by a few clever environmentalists who think that the countryside is a Petri dish - and one that has to be kept uncontaminated by people like me. 

All that said, if their experiences with ignorant dog owners, litter louts and their loathsome offspring are anything like some of the ones I have had whilst out walking in around Cuxton, Halling and Luddesdown, then I have a bit of sympathy for the scientists who want to shut down our countryside, and for landowners like Vineyard Farms: VF even had one of their "boast posts" vandalised recently, which was inexcusable.

More and more of Cuxton's countryside is being fenced off to exclude its residents but perhaps overall we deserve it, thanks to a dog-owning, litter/poo bag-dropping, selfish and self-entitled chav contingent. 

Why should land owners have to put up with aggressive yobs who seem to think they have the right to drop litter, light barbecues or let their stupid, semi-feral pets and offspring run riot everywhere? Or ride their quad/trials bikes across farmland and through woodlands, terrorising livestock and wildlife and tearing up crops and fields? 

And what incentive do landowners have to take the time to distinguish the good from the bad visitors to their property? Can you blame them for fencing it off?

I am depressed and discouraged....

Thursday, 21 July 2022

The North Downs Way - Borstal to Wouldham...

At this time of year, the North Downs Way overlooking Ringshill Farm offers lovely views across the River Medway towards Cuxton and Halling...

The Medway Bridge...

The Medway Bridge...

Cuxton and the marina...

North Halling and Bores Hole...

Halling and the river...

Panorama across the Medway valley...

Ringshill Farm has been run by the Gore family since 1934, and they have recently been able to buy the land outright. Hopefully, in these challenging times, they will be able to continue managing the land as they have done for the last 90 years.  

Field Poppies, North Downs Way...

Field Poppies, North Downs Way...

Towards Halling...


St. Andrews estate and lake...

Information board, Wouldham Common...

Towards Halling from Wouldham Common... 

Unfortunately this view is in danger of being lost as the trees are growing quite fast and will soon screen off the river from view...

Rosebay Willowherb, Wouldham Common...

Ragwort...

Ragwort is one of those plants whose dangers stemming from its toxicity are grossly exaggerated. This was largely due to the Daily Mail*, which whipped up a load of hysteria about Ragwort, just to fill up a few column inches for its ever-credulous readership back in 2007** (and in subsequent occasional rehashes of the same rubbish). As a result, many of the horsey community now take it as an article of faith that Ragwort is lethal to their pets, even though in practice it seems that a horse (or any other large mammal) would have to be starving to eat Ragwort as it apparently tastes very bitter to them.  

That doesn't stop some people getting very angry about it, however, and such zealots would like to see this rather beautiful wildflower eradicated. Such drastic action would also bring about the eradication of the Cinnabar moth, whose colourful orange and black striped caterpillars feed on Ragweed along with many other insects, but hey, that's a small price to pay to possibly, maybe, keep our horses safe, eh?

A debunk of the myths around ragwort can be found here.


*so often a source of misinformation and "fake news", to the extent that Wikipedia still refuses to use it...

**I would include a link to the aforementioned 2007 article, but unless you are prepared to spend ages blocking consent to all of its "vendors", the MailOnLine will download so many "cookies" onto your computer/phone/iPad that I would not be at all  surprised if it exploded!

Sunday, 17 July 2022

The Bells of St. Michael's...

The sound of church bells on a clear Sunday summer’s morning is a quintessentially English one. The peal of St. Michaels has always been enjoyed by the vast majority of Cuxton's residents, and perhaps some of them might have noticed that the church bells were ringing for rather longer than usual this Sunday morning.

This is because a specialist team of ringers had committed to undertake a “quarter peal” of a bell-ringing method called “Plain Bob Doubles”, which took around 45 minutes (a video clip with sound illustrates about 30 seconds of that, as below...).


It seems that church bells have been rung at Cuxton since at least the fourteenth century. In 1866, when a peal of five new bells was placed in the tower, three older, cracked bells were removed. The treble bore the inscription:

+CRISTUS PERPETUE DET NOBIS GAUDIA VITE+

...which means ‘may Christ give us the blessing of eternal life’. On the crown of the bell, repeated three times, was a shield bearing three heraldic laver-pots (ewers) which dated it as later fourteenth century. The bell was believed to be the work of William Wodeward, a Kentish bell-founder who lived from 1395 to 1420.

The other old bell was apparently cast by Giles Reve, an Elizabethan bell-founder who worked from 1584 to 1592. The Cuxton bell was unusual for having the surname of the bell-founder omitted, the inscription reading:

BY WE GYLLES BELLFOANDER 1589

Giles Reve appears to have been a local man as his work is only found in the northern part of mid-Kent. In the Middle Ages, it was common practice for bell-founders to travel from church to church with their tools and materials, and for them to cast the bells in sand mould made in the churchyard.

The third bell was believed to be of 15th or early 16th century manufacture and bore the Latin inscription: 

+HAEC CAMPANA CANORA MAGDALENAE NOMEN GERIT+
("This tuneful bell bears the name of Magdalen").

These older bells were probably "chimed" when rung, that is, they were just rocked back and forth, which is the way church bells are usually rung throughout the world, with the exception of the UK (and its former colonies). In England in the seventeenth century, the style of "full circle" ringing was developed. The bells were spun until they almost reached their balance point at the top of their cycle, with the mouth of the bell pointing upwards. It was found that this gave much greater control over exactly when the bell sounded, allowing the subsequent development of "change ringing", a practice that produces the ever-changing peals that are so characteristic of well-rung English bell-towers. 

Traditionally, St. Michaels has always had a highly-competent team of ringers. While the ringers at many church bell-towers are content to ring simple rounds or “call changes”, the Cuxton teams have tended to be a bit more ambitious, being proponents of the complex art of “method ringing”

At the turn of the twentieth century, John Cogger was Tower Captain. He served in that role until 1919, when Charles Cogger took over until WW2. Ringing was temporarily stopped by order of parliament as a result of the war, but the bells were kept in good order during that period as they would have used as a means of warning in the event of invasion.

After the war, Jim Cogger took over as Tower Captain in 1945, at the head of a strong team of ringers composed of the old pre-war hands plus some younger enthusiasts.

The Rev. G. Taylor did not care for bells, causing a temporary break during 1951-1955, until a new team was formed after the Rev. Charles Rae’s institution.

Cuxton bell-ringers, 1956: L to R; Lorna Russell, Jim Cogger, Bernice Rogers, Harold Gregory, Peter Bond, Derek Church.

In 1964, local historian, keen bell-ringer and professional architect Derek Church discovered that the church tower was becoming dangerously unstable and needed extensive remedial work. Fundraising commenced and an informative pamphlet was produced, which outlined a brief history of the church and gave details of the tower repair work to be undertaken.

Cover of the 1964 "Tower Appeal" pamphlet...

As part of the repairs, the opportunity was taken to return the existing five bells to their 1866 birthplace, Mears and Stainbank of the famous Whitechapel Bell Foundry, for repair and re-tuning. (Alas, this historic foundry has long since closed…).


Scope of the 1964 church remedial work, as outlined by Derek Church...

At the same time, an additional new treble was cast by the Whitechapel Foundry, and mounted on a new steel frame above what became the No. 2 bell.

The repair work was completed by local building firm F. Hayward and Sons, and ringing recommenced with a complement of six bells rather than five, which allowed more comprehensive methods of change-ringing to be undertaken.

In 1964 after repairs were complete, yet another generation of the Cogger family took on the role of Tower Captain, Colin Cogger. His work eventually took him away from the area and others took up the mantle, but Colin is still very much around and still rings occasionally.

Here are a few facts and figures about the bells of St. Michaels: 

Bell no:

Weight (lb/kg)

Bell diameter (inches)

Note

1 (the “treble”)

400 / 181

23

F♯

2

432 / 196

24.75

E

3

501 / 227

26.63

D

4

591 / 268

30.75

C♯

5

687 / 312

32.88

B

6 (the “tenor”)

833 / 378

35.5

A

Bells 1, 2 and 3 at St. Michaels: No. 1 in the frame over No.2 with No.3 on the right...

Clockwise from left, bells 3, 4, 5 and 6 at St. Michaels...

Change ringing is the art of ringing a set of tuned bells in a tightly-controlled manner to produce precise variations in their successive striking sequences, known as "changes".

Stickmen ringing "rounds": see how the stay and slider mechanism would prevent the bell from turning more than about 350 degrees - not that a competent ringer would "over-pull" to that extent...

Two forms of ringing changes have developed; Call changes and Method ringing. This would be a huge post if I were to go into the details of these: indeed, whole books have been written on the subtle and intricate art of change ringing, but a nice little summary can be found on good old Wikipedia (link here).

Looking at the mechanics of bell-ringing shows how the regular striking of a bell is dictated by the way it swings through almost (but not quite) a full circle. (Again, I don’t plan to go into the mechanics of church bells but if you are interested, it’s all explained very concisely - and with nice animated diagrams - here…).

Bells 4, 5 and 6 at St. Michaels: the wheel of No.3 is on the right

Church bells are very heavy and the time between strikes cannot be changed by much, as no bell-ringer would have the strength to suddenly put the brakes on a bell once it is swinging full circle. This obviously limits the practical change of interval between successive strikes – it’s why you can’t play tunes on church bells!

As I noted above, bell-ringing at St. Michaels has a long history. 

It was gratifying to see how warmly Cuxton’s residents received the resumption of the traditional Wednesday evening bell-ringing practice sessions after the lifting of remaining coronavirus restrictions at the end of February this year.

Practice nights are usually well-attended, but unfortunately it is becoming increasingly difficult to support traditional Sunday service ringing, as many of the ringers have commitments at other towers on a Sunday.

Several of Cuxton’s ringing team have recently had to retire from bell-ringing because of the frailties associated with old age. It is to be hoped that a few more new faces will go along to practice evenings on a Wednesday in an attempt to learn the difficult but rewarding art of church bell-ringing, and to carry on the tradition at Cuxton.

It would be sad if the passage of time finally achieves what world wars, tower repairs, the recent coronavirus lockdowns and even hostile vicars could not – the permanent silencing of the bells of St. Michaels. 

References:

1)            Dove’s Guide for Bell-Ringers, Cuxton entry

2)              Wikipedia: Change Ringing

3)              Cuxton – A Kentish Village, by Derek Church (published by Arthur J. Cassell, 1976, ISBN 0 903253 12 7)

4)              How Bells Work – Ilsingtonparish.co.uk